Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar is also known as "City of Gates",
with as many as 52 gates constructed originally. Standing tall through times,
gates still retain some of the original charm and stories associated. One
should take time for a lazy stroll around the city to check the gates - Makai
Gate, Delhi Gate and Mehmud Gate.
Chatrapati Sambhaji Nagar (CS Nagar) is a historic city in
Maharashtra close to the Ajanta, Ellora Caves and Ghrishneshwar Jyotirlinga.
The city offers a blend of art, spirituality, and craftsmanship and stands as a
gateway to India’s architectural legacy. On our unending quest to explore
offbeat places, we landed at CS Nagar, with itinerary planned as follows -
Day 1: Arrival – Bibi ka Maqbara
Day 2: Ellora Caves – Pitalkhora Caves – Bhadra Maruti Temple – Panchakki
Day 3: Ghrishneshwar Jyotirling – Holkar Kund – Paithan Silk Mill - Daulatabad Fort – Sidharth Zoo
Day 4: Aurangabad Caves - Lonar
Day 5: Lonar – Ajanta Caves – Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar
Day 6: Local Market and return
Afternoon was at peak when we landed in CS Nagar and evening had just set in when we checked in at our stay for next 3 nights. It was a perfect
time to explore the spot popularly known as Mini Taj of the Deccan - Bibi ka
Maqbara.
It is the burial place of Aurangzeb’s wife, Dilras Banu Begum
(posthumous titled as Rabia-ud-Daurani). She passed away in 1657, one month after
giving birth to her 5th child.
This spectacular monument was built by Azam Shah in
memory of her mother. Azam Shah was fascinated by Taj Mahal and tried to
imitate the design at Bibi ka Maqbara, construction was started in 1657 and was
completed in 1668-69. Upper portion of the main dome of the monument is covered
with marbles like at Taj Mahal; however, rest of the portions have normal
construction, due to budget constraints as told by locales. Perforated jaali
(net) work on windows is worth appreciating.
Bibi ka Maqbara perfectly set the tone for the coming days.
Day 2: Ellora Caves – Pitalkhora
Caves – Bhadra Maruti Temple – Panchakki
Before 7 AM, we were on way to Ellora. Till now we had read about Ellora in the books only and within 30 minutes we were at the entry gate with entry
tickets booked online.
A small walk and we were in front of the Grand Kailash
Temple (Cave no. 16) - word Grand is too small to describe the aura of the temple and the
carvings.
Built by Rashtrakuta King Krishna I in 8th century, the temple is
carved out of a single rock as monolithic structure dedicated to God Shiva.
Every part of our grand heritage is carved in stones at this temple.
After having our lunch at Ellora, we set out to Pitalkhora
Caves - a true hidden gem in Maharashtra’s Satmala hills. These
ancient rock-cut caves, with their striking yellow colour and ravine settings
will take you back into history. Far from the crowds, this remote spot is a
must go for curious wanderers and peace seekers. Check out this
once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Read more about Pitalkhora Caves, forgotten and abandoned spot. Still some rays of the evening were with us, and we got
time to explore Bhadra Maruti Temple, while returning to CS Nagar. It is one of the rare temples in India, where God Hanuman is in
reclining pose (sleeping posture).
Evening had not entirely retreated when we reached the
last spot of the day, Panchakki (Water Mill), an engineering marvel built in
1744 AD is a shining example of Maratha engineering prowess, where falling
water was used to run a fluor mill to grind grains.
Water was bought from a
source 6 km. away through earthen pipes to an underground water tank. From the
water tank siphon action used to lift the water to top of rectangular pillar
and from where the falling stream of water used to drive a fluor mill, which is
still revolving – but not grinding anymore.
Day 3: Ghrishneshwar Jyotirling –
Holkar Kund – Paithan Silk Mill - Daulatabad Fort – Sidharth Zoo
Yesterday while going to Pitalkhora Caves, we had witnessed miles long heavy traffic heading towards for Ghrishneshwar Jyotirling. To avoid
the rush, we started at 6 AM in the morning. By 7:15 we were inside the
Jyotirlinga temple and walking towards the sacred sanctum of the temple.
It was
a chilly morning, and as custom males are required to remove the upper clothing
before entering sanctum. I tried to delay removing jacket, but as soon as I
did, I didn’t feel any cold till the time we spent inside the temple. This is
called as “Divinity”, our temples are proof of divine existence.
Jyotirlinga was reconstructed by Maloji Bhosale in 16th century, and present structure was restored by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar in 18th century.
After praying and seeking blessings of God Shiv, we
asked the way to Holkar Kund. A surprised shopkeeper told us to take
right from the main road. This stepwell was constructed by Queen Ahilya bai
Holkar in 18th century to provide much needed water to local
population and for pilgrims to relax, take a bath before entering the
Jyotirlinga temple. Measuring 240×185 feet, stepwell has 8 temples, each
housing a Shivling at the four corners and at the centre of each side at the
water’s edge.
Holkar Kund stands as an illustration of civic planning
of the Marathas and their emphasis on public utility. Want to read more…
By 9 AM we were ready to have our breakfast at one of the
roadside eateries, same from where we had our lunch yesterday. On way to
Daulatabad Fort, we had a brief stopover at Paithan Silk Mill. Kids got a good
time, watching how the Paithan Silk Sarees are made. Check out the mill –
Finally, we were at Daulatabad Fort, originally known as
Devgiri Fort. This 12th century Fort located on top of a hill was
the capital of Yadav dynasty. Daulatabad
was the spot chosen by Mohammad Bin Tughlaq to shift the capital from Delhi,
forcing entire population of Delhi to relocate. The idea failed badly,
relocation and reverse location lead to death of thousands of people from
exhaustion, starvation and extreme heat.
One has to take 750 steps to reach to the top and enjoy
some breath taking 360 degree views of the surroundings. Check out what I saw -
In the course you will
come across giant Canons, Watch Tower, Step well, unique temples like Bharat Mata Mandir, palaces, deep trenches
infested with crocodiles and aspects of military architecture consisting of
hidden and confusing pathways. Keep at least 3-4 hours of time. Check a few
pictures – Can not cover the fort is a paragraph, so stay tuned for updates. Check out the huge trench and Chand Minar, the 2nd tallest minaret in India after Qutb Minar in Delhi.
Not only Forts and Caves, CS Nagar has
Siddharth Zoo, a nice place to visit with children. Zoo has number of animals
like White Tigers, Snakes, Crocodiles, Porcupines, Bears and many more. Snakes’
section is the most visited spot in the Zoo and is always filled with curious
kids.
Dinner time was still an hour away, so shopping at
Paithan Gate market seemed the obvious choice. This also provided a chance to drive through the gates of Aurangabad.
After trying authentic local dishes for the dinner, we were back to packing for travel to Lonar tomorrow morning. Stay tuned for exploring Lonar, the crater lake formed by
a falling meteorite 52,000 years back.
Keep exploring folks……
