On Nainital and Mukteshwar: A Lake, Deodars and Maple Leaves - part 2 of 2

We left for Mukteshwar at around 11 AM. Somehow it got cloudy again and the roads got under thick white mist. It took a while to drive out of the town since there were many people on the road. Soon it started to drizzle and it felt good. Mukteshwar is at a height of about 7200 ft and is right in the middle of Banj Oak and Deodar forests. The forest is evergreen and mostly covered in mist. You can see that green moss and lichens have taken over the whole forest since it rains here almost every day, even in summer. 

The road goes through Bhowali, which is another settlement on the way but I found that it has been hijacked by too many people and a lot of apartments were being built. The place was almost sold entirely for new construction. I hope they leave a few trees so that the place is recognizable. Crossing Bhowali, you get to Bhatelia which is about 6 kms from Mukteshwar. It is a quaint marketplace similar to almost every mountain market in Uttarakhand. There are fruit shops selling fresh apples, plums and kiwis which are grown in the orchards nearby. The road was lined by apple trees growing in fenced orchards. A few apples find their way outside the fences and they are eaten by children who can jump really high. The apples were big and red, all drenched with rain. You could see the water droplets shine on them, it was sweet. 

In the dense mist, the drive was slow and enjoyable. We could see clouds floating in the valley below, we were gaining altitude and the clouds were getting beneath us. The road was smooth and the trees looked were crooked and beautiful with vines slithering around them like thin green snakes with feathers on their bodies. It was like the whole forest was under a magic spell and made more beautiful under the mist and the clear water droplets on the trees.

We reached Mukteshwar around 2 PM and started to look for a place to stay, I wanted a room with a big window or many windows. I wanted a room on a cliff. We looked at many places, including the government KMVN rest house. It was quite isolated and at the very top but it had an ordinary view. So we went to at least five places before finding the perfect room which had huge windows right on the cliff.

When you walk out on the single road which takes you from one end of the place to the other, you realize that it is a very small settlement in an unreal setting. It is right in the middle of a dense forest where it rains and snows. There is a bank and post office here, at such a beautiful place and for a moment I curse all the people who are lucky to work and live here. However, there were a lot of “Land for sale” boards on vacant lands and orchards. While one can look at them with hope, the other can look at them with sorrow. There are some restaurants which can cook all the fancy food for you. There was no cultural essence in the place, at least from the outside. It is all in for the nature that people come here. If you have time, you can go for a hike to a waterfall called the “Bhaalu Gaad”. I spent a lot of time sitting in an open space staring out the steep cliffs. The clouds kept coming and leaving. They would form right in front of me and then rush upwards to the room and come rushing through the windows and fill the room completely. If you have never felt it or seen it with your own eyes, you would never believe it. The road goes from the beginning where there are few restaurants on the left and a forest on the right.  There are old guesthouses and some abandoned old colonial structures on the right with tall chimneys, now overgrown with grass and shrubs. Kumaon has had more colonial exposure than the other parts of Uttarakhand, while it also shares borders with China and Nepal. Since these places have been used for trace since ancient times, there are a lot of old structures spread throughout the region. I would like to go and see those abandoned structures someday. They might have been rest houses or offices for the British. I have never stayed in a place with chimneys but watching these long stone chimneys makes me happy and nostalgic for a feeling I have never felt before. The white walls of these old buildings are now greenish with moss and looks like painted with old mosaic patterns. A walk can be a long journey if you are watching. You can observe yourself walking in the middle of a forest and for once, you can be one with the brown trees and the grass growing on the road side.

You can walk on stones and on wet fallen leaves and look up to see the forest canopy, with all the trees almost coming close at the top but never touching. Whenever the weather clears, the sunlight comes filtered through the tree leaves and makes crazy patterns like tiger stripes on the road. It is difficult to recognize the essence of a forest or any natural place without respecting and accepting its power over you. We are small and we have existed only for a fraction of time compared to the trees and the forest and the land which has given us these friends. These birds, these flowers, these leaves and these butterflies, unless you are ready to be a humble guest, they will never open up their doors.

Mukteshwar is a magnificent place which fills one with humility and gratitude for the existence of true beauty. The night was beautiful and I slept peacefully. When I woke up it was drizzling, everything had disappeared. The clouds were on a riot but we had to leave. We left while it was raining, again, through the apple orchards and the red apples staring right at us. If you think you are somebody, just walk among the Deodar trees. 

(Post contributed by our friend traveller Nikhil Godiyal)


Vow, what a trail it had been from Nainital to Mukteshwar. Enjoy these delicacies, but remember:
A cleaner environment is an article of faith for us. We owe our future generations a greener and better planet. 
So do your best to leave these natural wonders in the cleaner state than you leave received on your arrival.

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On Nainital and Mukteshwar: A Lake, Deodars and Maple Leaves - part 1 of 2

We left home while it was still dark. Dark clouds were high up but it was not going to rain. The morning was warm and there was no wind. I woke up at 4 and was out on the road by 5 AM. The drive started pretty smooth and we were in Haridwar by 6:30 AM. The road is mostly wide with little traffic in the morning. The most interesting and exciting thing about this route is that it runs through Elephant corridors. The area has a large population of deer, wild elephant and leopards. You can see roadside signs with jumping deer, crossing leopards and elephants.

Even though it is rare to see an animal during day time, the hope of seeing one keeps your eyes scanning through the jungle.

Unlike other mountain trips, this route would take us through Uttar Pradesh which was going to be quite tragic for someone like me who lives in a cold place and is not used to the chaos of the plains. The roads are extraordinary and very smooth compared to anywhere else. However, there are congested areas in inner UP that take some time to wade through. Wherever you don’t have nature, you have man. I would not say that I don’t like to look at people and watch them go by in their daily lives.

You can still see children riding their Atlas bicycles off to school on a quite road that goes through green fields lined by palm trees. There is a different kind of peace in watching people in passing; you have just a few moments to build a story in your head about what is happening out there. You know that you don’t anyone, but you make up a life and an identity for everyone you see on the streets and on the highways. This is just to remember them.

Another sight is the sight on 10 children hanging by the sides of a small tempo while the seats are still vacant inside. Ten school kids hanging by the sides of a three wheeler moving at high speed, fear seems to evade these people and somehow I also believe that this can only happen here and nowhere else.

As you take the road to Najibabad, it starts to get hot and the roads get narrow. You have to deal with more traffic than usual and watching people drive in crazy ways makes your heart jump at times. People drive like maniacs, crossing and cutting wherever they get the space. We drove with care since even a little pushing someone can get you into trouble here.

You get out of this area and then start on towards Dhampur, there’s nothing much on the highway but there is a lot of greenery on both sides. There are sugarcane fields and corn fields, all bright and green. Rice fields are prepared and flooded beforehand. There is a kind of bright blinding green which is less blinding and more illuminating. I remember we stopped at Tularam Mishthan Bhandar in Nagina. It is a sweet shop which has been running since 1945. They are greatly commercialized and would even give you their famous Gulab Jamun for free if you take a selfie at their place and post it on Facebook and Instagram. 

The gulab jamun is delicious and they sometimes pack it in an earthen pot.

After crossing Ramnagar and the whole Corbett area, you realize that there are probably more resorts in the Jungle than there are animals. I read a board that said 1758 some resorts. I could not understand it but if it is true then it is a scary statistic. I don’t know how these people get to build huge luxury resorts in the middle of the jungle, but the whole highway was decorated with tiger safari boards. 

The Nainital road is also brilliantly paved with smooth curves and not a single bump on the road. It was a relaxing drive where one can just sit and look out the window without feeling scared of the turns. When you reach nainital, the first thing that you see is obviously the lake which is a marvelous sight in itself. The colorful sailboats sailing with the wind make you feel like you are in another dimension and it takes a while to settle down with the image of a vividly beautiful setting. A town built around a calm lake, with maple trees lining the mall road.

The weather is always pleasant and when we entered, the whole town was covered with clouds. Visibility was little and the whole place looked like it was under a romantic mist. The lake was covered with white and the trees were just brown silhouettes.  A walk on the mall road is reassuring in its own sense when there are less people. It was the “off season” but there were still some people, more than what I had expected. But the road was covered with thick clouds flying around and I could not see many people through it so it was even better. Visibility was not more than 5 meters and all you could see were the headlights of cars and motorcycles passing slowly from one end of the lake to another. 

There is a huge market which runs from Tallital to Mallital, the two ends of the lake and the mall road. There are bakeries, restaurants and handicraft shops throughout the way. The hotels are quite expensive in the tourist season but after 1^st July the off season rates are offered.  So we got a pretty good deal and a lake view room at a decent price. It was drizzling in the evening and the lights at the other end of the lake were casting long towers of light over the lake waters. These colorful lights look like many flickering candle flames being waved at the distant other end of the lake. One can look and meditate on the different colors and the long lines that move with the currents and ripples in water.

You can feel the cold air blow from the lake to the steep cliffs on which the hotels and restaurants are hanging, with transparent doors all facing the maple trees and the lake behind them. When you take a walk by the lake, you see wooden colored boats which are handmade here by old men. Many are yellow with red stripes on the sides. Many are shaped like swans and some like dragons. The swan boats are for the lovers, and it’s a sight to see them paddling away from their troubles for an hour from one end of the boat to the other, furiously moving their legs that are not used to moving. Many honeymoon couples where the man holds the camera and the woman in the short shorts poses under the yellow lamp post, deep eleven at night. The men look ready for a lifetime of work and the women look ready for a life time of disappointment of fading romance. Best friends are often the best team. Their dark red and golden bangles shine even in the night, tank tops and henna tattooed hands with one hundred bangles, an odd mixture of tradition and modernity, both genuinely misplaced. The ghosts of a thousand marriages haunt the mall road, silently walking by the trees, plucking leaves and eating them without anyone to ask. I have nothing against them. 

You can get a lot of food and all kinds of fancy things here. You can even buy scented candles as souvenirs for whoever you want. The candles come in all shapes and sizes and some are really works of art. You can get wooden cats and dogs. You get wooden carts, buses, trains, bicycles and everything that has wheels or would want to move. So apart from beauty, you have your dose of material pleasures, somehow graciously lined up at the other end.

You can go to a zoo if you want. There’s a “shuttle service” which takes you and brings you back. You can see wild animals in cages if you are in those kinds of things. However, the view from the zoo is pretty wild since it is on the mountain top. There’s an artificial waterfall type pool on the entrance which looks colorful and neatly made.

There’s an old mosque at the end of the lake, it stands white and tall beside the football ground. It has things inscribed on its walls, which makes it look beautiful and misplaced in a small setting. You can get your pictures clicked at the gate and also watch a football game on the stands. The narrow end market roads shine bright in the evenings. I imagine when there are less people and honeymoon goers, these roads must look beautiful like all forgotten roads do.

A walk from one end of the lake to the other with the wind from the surface of the lake blowing across your steps makes you want to shut your ears and keep walking, wishing the road never ends. When the clouds gather over the lake and over the streets, it makes you feel like you are alone and everyone is not watching you. This feeling is comforting and cannot be found anywhere else unless there is a lake and clouds on the road. I remember the feeling of being surrounded with clouds that leave thin droplets of water whenever you touch them. Your hair gets wet and water droplets hang from your eyelids when you keep walking on an evening like this. 

You can enjoy an hour long boat ride whenever you want and it’s not expensive at all. You can take the paddle boat or you can take the row boat where someone rows your boat while you sit and relax. Most people don’t sit and relax; they are more interested in collecting the memory on their phones and cameras. I realized that when people come to a beautiful place, they want to seize it to see later, but mostly they never look at it later because they don’t have any memory of that moment. A sunset never reaches you if you look at it through the screen, maybe it does, I don’t know. 

You might want to book the hotels in advance if you find a good deal, else you can just walk in and bargain for a lake view room if you have the talent. Don’t take the inner dark rooms because there is no point in taking a room without a view. You will sleep soundly with an open window and the sound of a quiet humming rain. Nainital is one of my favorites, the first time I came here, there was snow. 

After this fairytale outing in Nainital, we left for Mukteshwar at around 11 AM. 
Stay connected, reaching Mukteshwar soon..

(Post contributed by our friend traveller Nikhil Godiyal)

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Shri Krauncha Giri, Kumar Swamy Temple - Disscovery of Chalukya Legacy

Whether you are travelling on the road or off the road, you are never far off from a wonderful Offbeat Spot. Such is the beauty of Land called India. 

The era of Vijayanagara empire has been often called as the most prosperous region ever to have happened, on this earth. Other than the majestic Hampi Kingdom, this region also has some impressive monuments which are yet to be explored. While meandering in this region came to know about a panoramic temple on Krauncha Giri (Giri means Hill in hindi language), somewhere nearby.

Search for that exclusive temple took me to the Swamimalai Forest Range, wherein lies the legendary Krauncha Giri mountain. I had no idea that I was going to walk into a legendary chapter of our Mythology. Legendary…? 

Located 10 km away from Sandur in Bellary district, this mountain is the site of the famous Kumar Swamy temple (also spelled as Kumaraswamy/ Kumaraswami). The  Kumar Swamy Temple complex consists of 2 temples dedicated to Lord Karthikeya and Goddess Parvati (Mother of Lord Karthikeya). Lush green mountains in the backdrop make a perfect canvas for this temple.

Located inside the mountains, this beautiful temple complex was built during the reign of Chalukya Dynasty, around 7^th century, almost 1200 years back. Chalukya rulers were great patrons of architecture. Cave temples at Badami is another notable construction by Chalukya Rulers. 

Originally the temple was dedicated to Goddess Parvati. Perfect ambience to pray to the Gods. 

Distinct dome of the temple is complimented by intricate carvings on the walls:

With the decline of Chalukyas in this part, Rashtrakuta dynasty (6^th – 10^th century) took over the Southern India. This temple was rebuilt by the Rashtrakutas and the present idol of Lord Karthikeya (Lord Subramanya) was put at the place, inside this beautiful temple. 

After the decline of Rashtrakutas, the area was taken over by the forests and the temple was lost for a substantial period of time. But such a jewel could not have remained lost for long. During 15^th century Ghorpades (sub-clan of the Maratha Bhosale clan) discovered the temple. The Ghorpades who valued and respected the local cultures and were equally respected by the locals. Since then the temple has been a sacred place for worship by everyone.

The entrance of the sanctum is decorated with beautiful engravings on the Soapstone. This temple has some peculiar domes/ temple tops, very unusual composition, as compared to other temples in the country. Check out the domes of Karthikeya Temple, Lord Ganesha sitting at top:

Lord Krishna decorating the top of a small Lord Shiva Temple:

While walking around in the premises, saw something peculiar about the Karthikeya temple. After seeing carefully, noticed that the upper temple structure has been placed on the blocks. Check out- 

This is amazing, India had got such architectural techniques so long back.

Legend about the mountain: 
Word Krauncha looks strange. As per mythology, Krauncha was a demon who used to take the shape of mountain to kill the sages who used to pass through this way. Sage Agastya cursed him to turn into a mountain till being killed by Lord Karthikeya by ripping apart the mountain. 

The unique feature of mountain Krauncha Giri is that it is shaped like an ellipse, with a pass cutting across it. According to the legends, this gap in the mountain was made by Lord Karthikeya (Known as Lord Subramanya or Lord Murugan in South India) when he had ripped apart this mountain to kill the demon Taraka, who was hiding inside this mountain.

Thereafter Krauncha Giri became the first residence of Lord Karthikeya in the South India. This story is told in Mahabharatha Salya Parva and in Skanda Purana. This gap in the mountain has also been mentioned in Kalidasa’s lyric poem Meghdutam. 

Walking around and chatting with the priests about the  past of this place, came across a small complex of Shivalingas and statues:

  

Now in the Swamimalai forest range, trees like rosewood, sandalwood, teak wood, etc. flourish in their full glory. 

According to geologists, this peculiar mountain is made of volcanic eruptions and is very rich in mineral deposits. The soil and lake here is red marshy that owes to presence of rich ferrous and manganese deposits. Check the panoramic road to Kumar Swamy temple. 

Tigers used to roam freely here till 1960’s. But not anymore, due to hunting and habitat loss resulting out of mindless mining, they were swept away. Peacocks are also a very common sight here. The forest range is also a very good habitat of leopards.

Krauncha Giri is just 10 km away from Sandur. Karnataka State highway (SH-40) pass through the gap in the mountain, connecting Sandur to rest of the State. The temple complex is located on south-west corner and is connected to Sandur by road. Road condition is reasonable good albeit some rough patches. However heavy vehicles carrying mines are regular on this route so caution is required while driving. 

Nearest Rail Heads are: Hospet, Bellary & Toranagallu (24 km) on Guntakal-Hubli line.

The temple is open from 9:30 AM to 1:30 PM and from 4:30 PM to 7:30 PM. Location and route to Kumar Swamy temple from nearby landmark points like Hyatt Hampi (17 km.), Toranagallu Junction and Hampi (57 km.):

Keep Exploring Guys…

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Hawaii for the First Timers: How to Plan the Perfect Getaway

It is only plausible that you have kept Hawaii in your list of must-visit destinations for quite some time, because duh! It’s Hawaii! It has been a dream destination for all of us 90’s kids who have grown up watching every favourite character on television or films going to Hawaii for a dream vacation, relaxing in the beach, indulging in a fair share of water sports and enjoying the Hawaiian coastal weather to the fullest.

However, whenever these characters used to visit the beaches it was given that they know their way around, putting up at the best of places, enjoying the best of cuisines and making the most out of a short trip in general (Cinematic Liberty anyone?). The scenario IS possible though, given that there aren’t many places in Hawaii where you would be completely disappointed with the experience but the truth is that Hawaii has a lot to offer in terms of its islands. Each of the islands has its distinctive culture and diverse things to offer to a person who is visiting for the first time.

Though accommodation is seldom a problem with comfortable Hawaii rentals available at affordable prices with stunning views (since every place in Hawaii is a breathtaking locale in its own) and each morsel of the Hawaiian cuisine is delectable, the true challenge when visiting Hawaii for the first time is deciding which all places to visit and more importantly which places to leave out.  The most popular destinations, namely, the Big Island, Maui, Kauai and Molokai, each with a completely different set of characteristics, different flavours and different things in store for people who visit them. Confused? Don’t worry, we have come up with a list that you can consider as your guide if you are visiting Hawaii for the first time.

Visit O’ahu for the Best of Good Times and Good Life: 

Does a vacation for you truly equate to the most relaxing time of the year? Then no questions asked, O’ahu is your pick of the trip. O’ahu has got the best of the beaches, food and culture to offer. Almost 75 per cent of the native people call ‘the Gathering place’ their home. The city is crowded in general and it might look a bit too crowded at the bus stations or at the sidewalks since it is here that the all the amenities of a city life can be enjoyed, but beautiful beaches and amazing forest hike trails are just a few miles away, if you are looking for a quick and tranquil getaway. Not to mention the historical museums that you might catch a sight of while putting up here.

Another one of the major attractions of O’ahu is the amazing food that is available here. All of Hawaii’s A-list chefs with their A-list preparations have chosen O’ahu as their base, and fusion menus find their own, sweet way into your tables. Not only that, there are food trucks spotted and the Farmers Island Market in here at O’ahu and if a trip for you translates into passing out into a food coma, then this is the place for you. 

Go on an Adventure Tour in the Big Islands:

If you want your fair share of adrenaline pumping activities, then you must make your itinerary keeping the Big Islands as your focal point. Hawaii is technically a volcanic archipelago and some say, in spite of the multicoloured sand beaches and the impressive lush forest ranges present, the main attraction of Hawaii is the lava tour you get to experience here. Kilauea in Hawaii is the world’s most active volcano and for hikers, it is a dream come true to travel through the barren surroundings of the volcanic mountain. You can even spot volcanic eruptions, hot and slick lava and other dried up remains that will make your hike a thrilling experience.

Emerald valleys, ice cold waterfalls merging into pools, lava flows colliding against lush rainforests and the loftiest summits are the things these places are made up off. Also, extra points if you are a wildlife lover because the Big Islands is the place where you can spot spinner dolphins and sea turtles along with some awe-inspiring coral gardens that are packed with vibrant coloured fish. However, the best rare animal spotting can be done in the winters, where you can catch a glimpse of the humpback whale in all its glory. 

Surf and Surf in Maui:

For some of us, beaches mean endlessly indulging in water sports. It is a truly rejuvenating experience when you can let go and become a total water baby. Maui provides you with that opportunity. Surf and surf in the well diminutive waters of the Maui and experience an adrenaline rush like never before. There are a lot of surfing schools which help you train so that your surfing experience is safe and sound. Apart from that, Maui like O’ahu offers you a good eating experience too. Maui is home to a lot of upcountry pastures where the beef is grass-fed and thus you can have a meaty affair to remember for your lifetime. Apart from that, Maui also provides you with an opportunity to hike with the bamboo forest and lofty ridgetops. 

Though there are a lot of other places you could very well visit in Hawaii, these places form the crux of the Hawaiian heaven. The choice of your places also completely depends on your choices as an individual and what you are looking to get out of a trip. However, rest assured, you can never be disappointed when you visit the Aloha state. 

So lets pack your bags and book your tickets to Hawaii.  

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Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, Alwar

1.      One Man who brought the Rolls Royce company to its knees and

2.      One of most haunted place in the world.

What is the relation?

The man was King Jai Singh, who bought entire available fleet of Rolls Royce (6 cars) on one day in year 1920 and ordered the municipality to use the Rolls Royce cars for garbage collection at his kingdom. Those were the times when Rolls Royce were used to sweep the streets in India.

The haunted place is “Bhangarh Fort” where entry before sunrise and after sunset is prohibited by law. Still not making sense. Let’s add one more point in the list;

3.      A temple dating back to the time of Mahabharata, that is approx. 5000 years back.

Thread all the 3 points and we land in the city of Alwar. Not so known, but a quiet place popular with tourists seeking some adventures/ quiet moments.

Leaving apart the desert areas of Rajasthan, Alwar is one of the most arid and scorching places in India. Nestled in the Aravali Ranges, Alwar has a preserved a secret from the times of Mahabharata. The secret is the “Neelkanth Temple”, dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is believed that Pandavas carried the Shivlinga of Lord Shiva all the way from Kashi (Varanasi) and positioned at this place and a temple was erected for the Shivalinga. The engraved carvings on the temple walls are unique, in fact looks like statues glued to the walls:

Some of the carvings here are double layered. Check out the carved around main temple door and another door:

Have not come across such type of carvings, with so much depth at any other place in India. So probably this temple is much much older than many of the temples in India which are approx. 1000 or 2000 years old. Check out:

Excavations by Archaeological Survey of India have revealed existence of around 1000 temples in this place. 1000 temples in one place, probably the place must have been a grand establishment in its prime days.

More than 1000 temples used to exist at this sacred place. Why only one is standing now? What happened to other temples?

These temples were desecrated and destroyed by the attackers. However, when the attackers tried to damage the still standing Neelkanth temple, a huge fire erupted from the temple sanctum. Fire was so harsh that the soldiers had to surrender to the all mighty Lord Shiva and the king of the attackers had to ask for forgiveness from the Lord Shiva in order to safely retreat. That is why this Neelkanth temple is still standing to this day. Can clearly see the damage on the beautiful carvings:

The temple was constructed with 2 more connected shrines like structures. However, except the main temple, other 2 have got flat roofs. 

Existence of nearby places like Viratnagar (then known as kingdom of King Virat), where Pandavas stayed in disguise for one year further reinforces the fact that this Neelkanth Temple dates back to that age. 

As per records the temples were further re-beautified in around 1010 AD by king Ajaypal Rajorgarh (the place where Neelkanth temple is situated comes under Rajgarh. Word Rajorgarh changed to Rajgarh during course of time. Found inscriptions, dated 961 AD also refer to temples being built by King Mathanadeva, a related to local Pratihara dynasty. Other temples are in a dilapidated situation, crying desperately for refurbishment.

The place and this temple is revered and visited by large of devotees in the month of July/ August (Shravan, श्रावण). As per Hindu calendar month of Shravan, श्रावण is considered as most auspicious month of the year.

Where roads end, adventure begins. Last mile is in extremely bad shape; one has to literally wage an uphill battle. On reaching, once again realised that a journey of thousand steps makes the view from top so exhilarating. For explorers, travelling is like “Meditation” which keeps you cool even in temperature > 50⁰ Celsius. That’s how the way to Neelkanth looks from the top.

Found remains from the excavations indicate number of step wells, one palace with 360 steps under the ground and a number of small temples dedicated to Lord Hanuman and others. Check out this step well in front of Neelkanth temple. 

Keep travelling Guys. And here is the route to the legendary "Bhangarh Fort" from Neelkanth Temple.

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