Visit to Jodhpur has been an
amazing one, but somehow internal pleasure was not there. The joy of learning
new culture, meeting different people was still to be attained on this trip. It
was then came to know about visiting Bishnoi region, located at edge of Thar
Desert; a distance of 22 km. from Jodhpur city.
Why? What is so special about this village? Special...Special
is the custom here, special is the living philosophy and above all special is
the practice of preservation of trees and wild life.
This is the place, Khejarli
village where 363 people sacrificed their life to preserve trees. In 1763
Mehrangarh fort was being constructed, gypsum was required in huge quantity to
cement the rocks. Gypsum was prepared in those days by heating the rocks, to
heat the rocks wood was the only known source. So then king of Jodhpur asked
his soldiers to cut the Khejri trees which were abundant in the region around
Jodhpur. As the solders reached the region to cut the trees, Bishnois obviously
tried to persuade the soldiers from not cutting trees. When soldiers used force
to remove Bishnois, these Bishnois simply offered themselves to be killed
before cutting the trees by raising slogans of:
" सिर साटै रुंख रहे तो भी सस्तो
जाँण "
सिर के बदले भी अगर वृक्ष बच
जाए तो उस बलिदान को सस्ता ही समझना
“Even one head
chopped in saving a tree is worth and has not gone waste”
It was only when 363 bishnois were
killed, the news reached the king. The king then ordered not to cut any tree
from then. Picture kept at existing Guru Jambheshwar temple is self-explanatory
in this regard:
A memorial has been built as a
remembrance to that act and on the place where the remains of those people who
sacrificed themselves have been buried. Bishnois also do not burn the dead
bodies of the gone, but bury directly in order to preserve wood, as it comes
from trees only. Every year on the anniversary day of that sacrifice, people
gather here in huge numbers to pay homage to ones who taught to this world the
value of preservation of natural resources.
There are around 20,000 Bishnois
in this area. Bishnoi sect was started by Guru Jambeshwar in 1458 AD.
Bishnoi sect is based on 29 principles (Bish – 20, Noi- 9: the name Bishnoi) which
emphasize on love, peace and harmony among humans, animals and most important
nature. They love fellow human beings and preserve Khejri trees (source of Kair
Sangri) and worship Black Bucks. Their dedication to these
principles can be seen by this: even if black bucks enter into the field of
standing crop, people do not scare them or try to move the herd out of the
fields. There is also a temple dedicated to guru Jambheshwar.
In the campus there are lot of peacocks here in the temple roam around freely. Peacock is the only bird which reproduces when the female (peahen) swallows the tear of mail species. Tear come out after peacock get tired dancing in the rains/ monsoons. Till the time tear comes out, peahen calmly stands by the side of peacock.
Let’s go close to the life
style of a Bishnois. They still live in traditionally house built with the cow
dung and mud, no need to use fan as the interiors are very cold in the peak
scorching summers too. They also have their traditionally built refrigerators
out of husk, cow dung in which they keep and store food items. Food is cooked
on chulhas, only the dried branches of trees, which have fallen to the
ground by themselves are collected for cooking. You can see tea being
prepared on a Chulha. Bishnoi Ladies are very hard working; they get up early
do household work and help man in fields also.
I got a chance to have tea made on chulha (earthen furnace). Bishnois welcome the visitors with opium tea. Though opium is banned, but bishnois have permission to cultivate for their religion and customs associated to it. Here is the apparatus for preparing opium tea. Opium is put into the long tube and tea is distilled slowly through the opium.
Such is the harmony here that ladies can afford to roam around in forests without any fear. This is a place where animals and birds can live without fear. One can find a lot of migratory birds like Siberian cranes here in the local water bodies and Guda Lake. Local water bodies are not encroached by any means by the locales and are reserved only to serve birds and animals.
Living on the edge of desert is not easy, but
Bishnois have created a wonderful self-sustained ecosystem and are not
dependent on external means for their daily requirements. We in cities
might not value water so much, but the importance of water preservation is
exemplified by these simple people. Hats off. Khejri tree is a
prominent plantation in this region. A tree which grows/ survives/ flourishes
by only rainwater. No extra water is required. Sangree is obtained from this
tree, which is one of the most consumed vegetables here.
While moving around on narrow but well built roads,
we were often coming across freely roaming chinkaras, black bucks and other
animals. Amazed by the culture, we moved ahead to see the craftsmanship of
these people, check out:
- Pottery work; beautiful toys, images of Gods/ Goddesses, piggy banks, lanterns and utensils are much sought after. Crocodile visible in the back is also hand made by potters here. Prepare one crocodile is very time consuming and generally takes 2-3 months to make one.
Block Printing: Bed sheets with a rich mix of colors is prepared by traditional methods. these bed sheet go with number of steps and then finely a beautiful bed sheet form. You are free to buy bed sheets, good thing that they will show you bed sheets as many as you want to see, but will not insist slightly even to purchase even one.
Bishnoi family was kind enough to show us the Dari
weaving facility and told us the intricacies involved in the process. This is a
community co-operative where most of the community members take part in Dari
weaving. It ensures livelihoods for all of the families in this village. By
this time, we were very hungry and excited as it was the time to have
our lunch with a bishnoi family. Menu was Bajre ki roti, kair sangree ki
sabzii, Yellow Dal and Besan ki Kadhi. Every dish was yummy and much tastier
than any exotic meal in any restaurant or hotel.
For explorers there is also an option of staying with the Bishnoi family, in their houses:
The Safari time of 6 hours in villages of Guda
Bishnoiyan, khejarli and kanai passed like a second. But the take back
experience of this place was awesome and worth for every moment. Take one day
for Bishnoi safari and continue your journey to Jaisalmer or Bikaner.
For Information: This was the place where actor Salman Khan had killed the Black Buck,
the act which was condemned widely. Black bucks are worshiped here as re-incarnation of their Guru
Jambheshwar. As told by locales, had the vehicle been stopped by them, matter
would have been very serious, justice might have been done there itself.
These days we keep hearing about people fighting all over
the world for more resources. But after coming here, I
firmly believe that peaceful co-existence is not that difficult if we
learn to be happy within our means. People here are happy in whatever they
have, but what makes them different is the pride in their culture and legacy.
At this moment, Colossal Palaces and Forts do not look so great as compared to
a Bishnoi house.
Remember: Needs can be fulfilled, but GREED cannot
be. There are sufficient resources for everyone on this earth. Keep
exploring Guys...
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