September 4, 2011

On the Road --> Religiously to Kaila Devi

Beauty is in the eyes of the viewer…Experiences of scorching sunlight makes the joy of a pleasant evening unparallel…Many people find beauty everywhere while some keep on complaining and searching for it.

One fine day I realized that of late I have been meandering only in the hills, lush green valleys to take pleasure in heavenly breeze and holy river waters. India is a land of diversities: Lush green valleys to barren lands, Snow capped mountains to scorching deserts, sparkling rivers to oceans…there is everything to everyone.

Better late than never, As I always say Good travelers never plan in advance. As soon as I decided for the sandy and colorful Rajasthan…my car was ready to explore the colorful Rajasthan all the way to the holy temple of Kaila Devi.

Route is fairly simple: Delhi - Mathura (150 km.) - Bharatpur (190 km.) – Mahua (255 km.) - Hindaun (290 km.) -Karauli (322 Km.) – Kaila Devi (345 Km.). Road is in fairly good condition and exquisite charm of Rajasthan will keep you in lively sprits:

First sign of sands, ship of the desert is here to welcome you – 
WELCOME to the colourful Rajasthan...
Don't try to mess with it...

The Kaila Devi Temple was constructed in the year 1100 AD and is situated at a distance of 23 km from Karauli town. Thousands of devotees from all over the country and from all communities visit this temple, as this place is considered to be one of the 9 Shakti peeths of Hindu religion.




Beyond Mathura, you have to travel in the company of the real India. India that lives in villages, no swanky apartments, but houses made of mud :

Barren fields, sandy lands to mountains and lush green fields …all in one drive. At times landscapes are simple breathtaking. I captured this panorama with my driving hand and while I was driving. I am an adventurer, but please do not imitate this...

At times you will get the feel of being on a Road Safari. I mean the places where this is no proper road. Check out this road; there in proper surface, however driving is as smooth as any well surfaced road. The red  sand in this region though is very rough in appearance but it gets hardened like a perfect road surface by even a small downpour of water.

Nearest railway station to Kaila Devi is Hindaun. One can take State roadways buses or taxis, which ply at regular timings and fares are pretty reasonable. If you are a driving enthusiast, only 320 Km. separates you from Delhi.

Kaila Devi is located among the hills. Looks like Goddess already knew about my love for hills, check out if you can differentiate between Rishikesh and Kaila Devi:


If you are looking for 5 STAR comforts here, you will be disappointed. The best accommodation you can get here in “Narsi Guest House”. Narsi Guest house is the biggest one here and is reasonably well maintained and to my joys parking too. Well I was very happy for my car...However there is no option of prior advance booking, but do try your luck whenever you go. We were fortunate to get accommodation in the Narsi Guest House.


All the streets lead to the temple of Kaila Devi, however we chose this way. This place dates back to 1100 AD, so you will find a lot of ancient architecture. This structure has not crumpled even an inch for centuries, a benchmark for present day architecture and construction.






Apart from Narsi Guest house, there are also a number of privately owned guest houses which provide bare minimum accommodation. Since this place a limited accommodation, so at times of huge rush of devotees a large number of people sleep in the beautiful courtyard of this temple. This might look a bit odd to us, but no one is complaining…

One of the most venerated fairs of Rajasthan, Kaila devi fair is held here in the month of Chaitra (according to the Hindu calendar), for fifteen days in March or April. It is held in the honor of the deity Kaila Devi (a form of Mahalakshmi, the goddess of wealth and Chamunda, the goddess of death). 

I was amazed to see some of the devotees covering the distance to the temple in a very peculiar way. They were lying prostrate and marking lines with their hands at that position, then getting up and moving up to the drawn line and again repeating the procedure. Locales told me that this ritual is called 'Kanak-Dandoti' and is observed by staunch devotees. This is the power of faith and devotion by virtue of which these devotees endure hunger, thirst and exhaustion for even 15- 20 kilometers till they reach temple.

You can see a large number of saints and pilgrims from all the beliefs and traditions at all times here. One can also observe tribal people performing dances of happiness and singing songs in the praise of the deities lending the gaiety to the environment.

Mass prayer to the Goddess is also organized by the temple twice in day at 7:00 AM and 6:30 PM. You have to be the part of these prayers to experience the electrifying atmosphere. Let your soul immerse in the divine spirituality of this place.

Power of faith here is immense; even I went there twice in 2 days to seek blessings of the Goddess. Day or night, rains or scorching sun nothing can dampen the spirits of the devotees. Irrespective of their status everyone is lined up to seek the blessings. During the evening prayer the ambiance of the temple is amazingly exuberant with the holy chants, can not be missed.

Don’t forget to visit the temple of Bhairon, located in the courtyard. Also there is a “Lord Hanuman” temple, facing the Kaila Devi shrine. Lord 'Hanuman', is also called 'Languriya' in the local talks.

Trips can not be completed without shopping; this place has a small market. There are a large number of shops selling variety of articles where one can buy souvenirs and memorabilia for this trip. Its advisable to check the prices from 2-3 shops before actually buying. I saw a camel too in this market, where else you can find a camel in the markets…Check out

Since Kaila Devi is located along the banks of Kalisil River, you can also enjoy a quite walk along the river side. Why only walking, sitting one can also take a bath in the black waters of the river and join these devotees..

Black waters...? “Kalisil” stands for “Black layer of Stones”, river bad is made of black stones, due to which the water appears stark black in colour. The view from the riverside is panorama par excellence. Photographers will definitely enjoy this:

Thanks to Goddess Kaila Devi, for the first time in my life I came so close to the peacocks, our National Bird. These birds are much more beautiful than our imagination.




Peacock is an endangered bird and is facing severe perils of getting extinct. It was utmost heart breaking to see these birds trying to adjust to the new environment full of garbage, which is the outcome of human activities. We should stop encroaching in its natural habitats, without the vibrant colors of the Peacocks our earth will appear too dull.

Sorry gentlemen/ ladies, I forgot about the food....but such is this place that you would not feel hungry too often. This I realized when it was the time to have dinner. There are number of local eateries run by the locales. However take care about the hygiene factor. If you can afford walking till “Narsi Guest House”, you can get very reasonably priced and delicious food. Enjoy the charm of having the food served in the plates made out of leaves. And and and...Do not miss the appetizing “LASSI” in the earthen pots called “Kulhad” in local dialect. One earthen pot was almost equal to the dinner. Vow…I had a hefty dinner.

After dinner we set out for a quite walk around the place. Umbrella of the clear blue skies with distinctly visible stars had mesmerized us. In Delhi we hardly get to see more than 5-10 stars.

I got up early in the morning, to have a marvelous view of the Aravalis ranges from the terrace of Narsi Guest House.

After one more round of praying and seeking blessings from the Goddess Kaila Devi, we decided to return back to Delhi. The place is magnetic as we found it very difficult to start the return journey.


It could not have been better than meeting our unclewhile returning back. Tt was the family reunion time too, meeting my uncle in the way at mahua. It was one of the best surprises on the cards...check "Life is made of moments, beautiful moments"


Return journey was as eventful as we were able to enjoy a few missed out charming landscapes. This was the trip that took me closer to the real India. Despite being the economic powerhouse, there is an India where people has to walk miles to fetch drinking water. Though our highways are getting better day by day and the speed of the cars is increasing rapidly, but we still have to go a long way before we call ourselves a developed India.

Without any doubts, I will come again...Hopefully the next time I will see the much developed India.
To summarize this exciting trip: May the Goddess "Kaila Devi" be benevolent on me to let me continue travelling, exploring different places and living my life the way I want...



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12 comments:

  1. Nice place to visit......

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  2. Hi bhai..
    First of all i wana say that u r really a superb writer. I have seen this place(Kaila Devi Temple) no of times but as u hv explained each & every small nd big things, that's really cool. Now i m planing to go there....
    One more thing... i vl also stay in "Narsi Guest House"... :)

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  3. Wow.... that was an amazing tour. Very well explained. I might plan to go there. Will be waiting for some more travel experiences. :-)
    Keep traveling!!!

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  4. nice place to visit....
    beautiful writing and photos...

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  5. ..Dear Lucky.. Many of us dream but few have got the sheer drive and will to realize them.. I genuinely appreciate your grains for travel. You certainly make this place stand out with detailed description. ...It would be great to have more history about this temple to help informed an ignorant like me who have traveled this place so often without much of the insight in to it's history.. Also you could try to add some mythological stories to make it even more interesting for reasons that a place is attractive not only because of FACTS but also due to few concoctions attached to it during it's entire course of history... The good part is that you happened to meet your close-ones on the way..making it even more nostalgic.. i wish to travel, if not by myself, but through your sober blogs, to enjoy prospective virtual journeys.. take care and keep floating in new stuff.. reuben

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  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  7. looks like you are an author.... you have described everything very nicely and given the detail of each and everything your eyes see everything too closely..... i had visited kaila devi too but i never pondered on things so closely well thanks for such a nice view of your journey........ i think all would have loved it.One should visit kaila devi...... and as i always say "NEVER UNDERESTIMATE DEVI MAA HER CHANTS ALWAYS HELP". Go there an wish for something she would definately make it true

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  8. Thanks for sharing you exprerience..It will help us to visit Kaila Devi Temple

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    1. You should travel to this temple...journey is equally enticing as the temple is..

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  9. Nice description of place. Do you have contact no. of Narsi guest House. Is it secure to travel off navratra days. I am planning to visit in August ,coming from Banglore. Suggest best route from Jaipur.

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    1. Narsi Guest house do not entertain advance booking/ booking over telephone. You have to get the room there itself.
      Kaila Devi is too much over crowded during Navratra days, getting accommodation might be tough.
      There are 2 routes from Jaipur:
      1) On Jaipur-Agra road: right turn from Mahua (approx. 180 km)
      2) Via Ganganagar (approx. 160 km.)
      The first route is less crowded and road condition is much better. However if you start early morning from Jaipur, even the second route is equally good.
      Hope I am able to help you.
      All the best for your visit, do share your experiences...

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