Away from the grand walls
of Taragarh Fort and the splendid Bundi Palace lies a quiet, almost unknown Kshar
Bagh which is also known as Kesar Bagh or Saar Bagh. Located near Jait Sagar
Lake, Kshar Bagh is the royal cremation ground of the Bundi rulers and contains
around 66 cenotaphs (chhatris) of the royal family.
On Day 4, Kshar
Bagh was the 1st spot in the itinerary. With trees and bushes dominating the view, Kshar Bagh appears to be a modest spot at first glance as compared with Bundi's imposing
fort, palaces and stepwells. But once you step inside, the character of the place changes.
Briliiantly carved silent stones of the closely arranged chhatris create an
extraordinary sense of history. Each structure commemorates a member of the
Hada Chauhan royal - kings, queens and princes associated with the history of
Bundi.
Serving as stone
chronicle of Bundi's rulers, the cenotaphs were constructed over several
centuries, providing a remarkable architectural record of the Bundi dynasty.
The earliest is traditionally identified as the cenotaph of Rao Duda, dating to
around 1581, while the latest is associated with Maharao Raja Vishnu Singh,
dating to 1821. The
cenotaphs therefore are an architectural archive of Bundi's royal house and a display of fascinating stone carvings.
What makes
Kshar Bagh particularly fascinating is the craftsmanship of its cenotaphs.
Unlike plain memorials, these chhatris are richly ornamented with intricate
stone carvings of elephants, horses, floral patterns and figures from royal and
everyday life. The elephant carvings are especially striking. Some appear
powerful and ceremonial, reflecting the importance of elephants in Rajput
courts, while horsemen and mounted figures evoke the traditions of the Bundi
rulers. The stones seem to capture every movement - the raised trunk of an
elephant, the stance of a horse, or the posture of a rider.
The more
elaborate pillared chhatris generally mark the memorials of kings, while
simpler cenotaphs without the prominent pillared pavilion are associated with
queens. Likewise, these flat-top cenotaphs - As told by the caretaker, this one dedicated to the Queens is carved with all the Queens of the Kings whose cenotaphs are present here. One can count 62 queens in the carved structure -
Kshar Bagh
is a forgotten corner of Bundi, as it has not acquired the same fame as Bundi
Palace, Chitrashala or Raniji ki Baori. Tourists are not aware; operators
generally skip this spot as it is outside the city and probably the gone souls
may not like the disturbance by lot of footfalls.
Parts of the
garden appear overgrown, adding to its atmosphere of a forgotten landscape, but
this relative neglect also makes the experience distinctive.
Standing
among the chhatris, one can trace the passage of centuries through
architecture: changing proportions, decorative styles and increasingly
elaborate stonework. The site reminds us of the fact that Bundi's heritage is
not confined to palaces and forts. Its history also survives in places built to
remember the dead. Check the intricately carved roof in one of the chhatris. To
summarize: For anyone interested in Rajasthan's architecture, Rajput history or simply the lesser-known heritage of India, Kshar Bagh deserves a visit. It is not just a collection of cenotaphs, but Bundi's
history carved in stone. Kshar Bagh is not an open entry monument and ticket is required for entry. While purchasing entry ticket for Bundi fort, make sure to get the inclusive ticket for Kshar Bagh.
