The era of Vijayanagara empire has been often called as
the most prosperous region ever to have happened, on this earth. Other than the majestic Hampi Kingdom, this region also
has some impressive monuments which are yet to be explored. While meandering in
this region came to know about a panoramic temple on Krauncha Giri (Giri means
Hill in hindi language), somewhere nearby.
Search for that exclusive temple took me to the
Swamimalai Forest Range, wherein lies the legendary Krauncha Giri mountain. I
had no idea that I was going to walk into a legendary chapter of our Mythology.
Legendary…?
Located 10 km away from Sandur in Bellary district, this mountain is the site
of the famous Kumar Swamy temple (also spelled as Kumaraswamy/
Kumaraswami). The Kumar Swamy Temple complex consists of 2
temples dedicated to Lord Karthikeya and Goddess Parvati (Mother of Lord
Karthikeya). Lush green mountains in the backdrop make a perfect canvas for
this temple.
Located inside the mountains, this beautiful temple complex was built during the reign of Chalukya Dynasty, around 7th century, almost 1200 years back. Chalukya rulers were great patrons of architecture. Cave temples at Badami is another notable construction by Chalukya Rulers.
Distinct dome of the temple is complimented by intricate carvings on the walls:
With the decline of Chalukyas in this part, Rashtrakuta dynasty (6th – 10th century) took over the Southern India. This temple was rebuilt by the Rashtrakutas and the present idol of Lord Karthikeya (Lord Subramanya) was put at the place, inside this beautiful temple.
After the decline of Rashtrakutas, the area was
taken over by the forests and the temple was lost for a substantial period of
time. But such a jewel could not have remained lost for long. During 15th century
Ghorpades (sub-clan of the Maratha Bhosale clan) discovered the temple. The
Ghorpades who valued and respected the local cultures and were equally
respected by the locals. Since then, the temple has been a sacred place for
worship by everyone.
The entrance of the sanctum is decorated with beautiful engravings on the Soapstone. This temple has some peculiar domes/ temple tops, very unusual composition, as compared to other temples in the country. Check out the domes of Karthikeya Temple, Lord Ganesha sitting at top:
Legend about the
mountain:
Word Krauncha
looks strange. As per mythology, Krauncha was a demon who used to take the
shape of mountain to kill the sages who used to pass through this way. Sage
Agastya cursed him to turn into a mountain till being killed by Lord Karthikeya
by ripping apart the mountain.
The unique feature of mountain Krauncha Giri is that it is shaped like an
ellipse, with a pass cutting across it. According to the legends, this gap in
the mountain was made by Lord Karthikeya (Known as Lord Subramanya or Lord
Murugan in South India) when he had ripped apart this mountain to kill the
demon Taraka, who was hiding inside this mountain.
Thereafter Krauncha Giri became the first residence of Lord Karthikeya in the
South India. This story is told in Mahabharatha Salya Parva and in Skanda
Purana. This gap in the mountain has also been mentioned in Kalidasa’s lyric
poem Meghdutam. Walking around and chatting with the priests about the past of
this place, came across a small complex of Shivalingas and statues:
Tigers used to roam freely here till 1960’s. But not
anymore, due to hunting and habitat loss resulting out of mindless mining, they
were swept away. Peacocks are also a very common sight here. The forest range
is also a very good habitat of leopards.
Krauncha Giri is just 10 km away from Sandur. Karnataka
State highway (SH-40) pass through the gap in the mountain, connecting Sandur
to rest of the State. The temple complex is located on south-west corner
and is connected to Sandur by road. Road condition is reasonably good albeit
some rough patches. However heavy vehicles carrying mines are regular on this
route so caution is required while driving.
Nearest Rail Heads are: Hospet, Bellary & Toranagallu (24 km) on
Guntakal-Hubli line.
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