The charming affair for exploring offbeat and marvellous hidden spots continues non-stop with Gwalior and nearby Chambal Ravines. I had a day in hand and thankfully got a car to drive, so Chambal Ravines were again the natural choice for exploring some more unexplored spots. What else this Vagabond would have thought of when Life gave him a spare day and a vehicle to drive.
Shanichara Temple, Morena
Sahastrabahu Temple/ Saas bahu Temple
Teli ka Mandir, Gwalior
When was the last time you drove for 6-7 hours since early morning, just to visit that splendid spot?
Kanch Mandir, Indore
He was known as then "Cotton King of India", had set up the first Jute Mill in India, he was from Indore and he had penchant for creating masterpieces. Millions of glass pieces have been out together in order to built this glittering temple of glass, known as Kanch Ka Mandir. Outer Hall of this temple has numerous artifacts, all made of innovative use of glass. All that glitters here is Glass, beautiful Glass:
The temple is located inside one of the most popular markets in Indore city. The construction began sometime around 1903, but location of this temple is located inside a busy market was baffling me. Probably market got developed over the time around this popular spot; however the ITWARIYA market is much older than the temple.
Krishnapura Chhatris, Indore
Rise of Marathas during 17th
century lead to emergence of one of the most significant power in India which
is mostly credited with ending misrule which was prevailing in those times.
Brilliant commander like Tanhaji, supported by courageous chiefs like Holkars,
Bhonsale, Scindia, Gorkwads, established a kingdom based on Indian traditions
and culture.
Brilliance of Indian soul is that
gallantry comes along with patronage of arts and culture. Be it Rajputs or
Marathas, their swords crushed invaders time and again and their chisels
crafted architectural wonders.
The way Rajasthan is full of exquisite
masterpieces, a testimony to the artistic flavors of the Rajputs; similarly the
Maratha Rulers also had exquisite taste for architecture which is immortalized
in the form of the Krishnapura Chhatris, a spectacular combination of visually appealing stones, visible at the first glance.
Heart of Indore is the address and I was fortunate to be at Krishnapura Chhatris, the resting place of the Holkars. Development of Indore and nearby areas like Maheshwar is solely credited to the Holkar kings, who kept the soul intact till 1948.
Maheshwar - Cultured by Ahilya Bai Holkar
Once the devil Ravana
took up a fight with King Sahastrabahu. However, the result did not go as per
his expectations and Ravana was taken as prisoner by king Sahastrabahu. The
place where Ravana was kept as prisoner is mentioned as “Mahishmati” in
Ramayana.
Yes, the same “Mahishmati” which was mentioned in blockbuster
movie Bahubali. But where this city Mahishmati is or had existed in the past? After
finished our exploration of Mandu, we
were all set to Maheshwar, 45 km. from Mandu situated along the banks of river
Narmada.
This small and peaceful town is noted for its mammoth Ghats, temples,
and Sarees. Lots of pilgrims and saints come here to offer prayers and worship
sacred river Narmada. Lot of Saints, why? Reason being - The mythological
city of Mahishmati “, is now known as Maheshwar. Our spirits soared to
unprecedented heights to realize that we were standing in legendary
mythological city of “Mahishmati”.
To thank the Gods for this fortunate trip, we went to the
banks of Narmada River for thanksgiving. That is the first thing to be done in
Maheshwar. Neat and clean mammoth structures alongside the Ghats (riverbanks)
will ensure every moment spent here is worth. Ahilya Ghat is the most prominent
place of worship on river Narmada.
Mandu - City of Love destroyed by Powerquest
Situated approx. 100 km. from Indore, Mandu is a small ancient city in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Mandu rose to its peak of glory under patronage of then king Baz Bahadur. This was the time when love story of Baz Bahadur and his queen Rani Roopmati had painted the Mandu in colours of love during 16th century. Till date their love story is the flavour of all folk tales and song-dance theme in this Malwa region. Baz Bahadur (commonly known as Brave Hawk) was a warrior par excellence who fall in love with Roopmati, a shepherd with a symphonic voice.
Testimony to their fairy tale saga: To respect the desire of
Roopmati to worship river Narmada every morning, Baz Bahadur constructed a
Pavilion (Roopmati Mandap) cum military observatory fort to enable Roopmati get
a sight of and worship river Narmada daily from terrace of pavilion.
Offbeat locations in Madhya Pradesh that will fascinate you
Orchha - Land of Forts, Palaces, Cenotaphs, Relics and Ruins
Going beyond the ravines of Chambal, we were on the way to explore
a small hidden town of Orchha, which literally means hidden. Orchha is a
small town on banks of Betwa river in Niwari district of Madhya Pradesh, 125 km. from
Gwalior and 15 km. from Jhansi. Kingdom of Orchha was established in the
16th century AD, year 1531 AD by
the Bundela Rajput chief, Rudra Pratap Singh on the banks of
Betwa River. Orchha was developed as an impenetrable fortified citadel.
Orchha fort complex consists of numerous temples, forts and cenotaphs
(Chhatris), these all make Orchha an interesting spot to explore.
All good things shall start
with a prayer to the Gods; first spot in Orchha shall be the Raja Ram Temple,
an acclaimed temple which was earlier in fact a queen’s palace. This
is the only temple in the world where Lord Rama is worshipped as King
Rama.
Adjacent to Raja Ram temple is
the gigantic Chaturbhuj Temple, built by the king Madhukar to idolize
Lord Rama. However, Lord Rama decided to rest in the Raja Ram Temple.
Read the interesting story
about Raja Ram temple and Chaturbhuj Temple...
After praying, time to walk the heritage trail. Orchha fort
consists of many palaces like Raja Mahal, Jahangir Mahal and Rai
Parveen Mahal. Jahangir Mahal reflects the Bundela architecture. The views
from the balconies in the palace are spectacular. Raja Mahal is most
ancient historic monuments in Orchha fort. Standing on the island created
by Betwa River, Raj Mahal is surrounded by a battlement wall.
Saga of Raja Ram Temple at Orchha
After exploring the Chambal ravines and an amazing pit stop at Sonagiri temples the road to Orchha was in front of us. We have driven
for 15 km. from Sonagiri, when a fort along side a river came to
our sight. It was the imposing 7 storied Datia Fort, also known as Bir
Singh Palace. However no member of Datia royal family ever lived in this
palace.
Sonagiri, the Milky Hill...
By now we have explored almost every road in ChambalRavines, to further extend our safari beyond Gwalior
we started our drive towards Orchha on road from Gwalior. While
exploring the roads and asking for the directions, some locales advised us to
visit the milky mountain of Sonagiri. Milky Mountain…? The name Sonagiri
actually means mountain of gold. We too were surprised by this, till the
locales told us that 77 beautiful temples, all in white colour is the
reason behind milky Sonagiri Hill. Locales are the best guides.
Batesara Temples, Reviving a lost legacy...
Kakan Math Temple - The faithful Gravity Defying Stones
The moment I decided to put on my
exploring shoes, every road turned into a worthy destination. It was the
time to complete the Chambal Safari which had started
2 years back to explore the hidden ancient historical
marvels situated in Chambal ravines. First round had resulted
in discovery of Mitawali temple, which had been the inspiration
behind the design of Indian Parliament house.
Sorry I forgot to mention the objective of the quest, discovering Gravity defying Kakanmath temple which must have been one of the most prominent temples in India, in its glorious days. Do not be surprised once you reach there, you will get the answer...Since my last attempt to reach Kakanmath had failed so this time I was trying again to chase my passion with whatsoever it would have been taken and followed the heart to finally arrive at this sensational architecture.
Simhastha Kumbh, Hangover that refuses to end...
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Day 1: Shahi Snan at Ujjain Kumbh |
The drive to Omkareshwar from Indore was comfortable and we were welcomed by the hottest blow of air as we got down visiting the temple at Omkareshwar. After the darshan at Omkareshwar and a relaxed visit to the temple, we settled down to a comfortable stay at the MP tourism hotel. Next morning we set out for a dip in Narmada, and we were pleasantly surprised by the group of Bengali ladies who joined us. All were much older than us, but their pure joy as they took the dip unabashed was inspiring. Some hung on to our arms as they wished to swing for a while in the water, as we city bred cautious ladies, were looking at the rocks with moss on them cautiously. Narmada with her quite, magnanimous way had lessons to teach us, in that little while. Mother after all, she is. We were wondering which other culture in the world has so much reverence to the life giving rivers: Calling them rivers, bowing to them, energizing oneself with a dip in them, praying and lighting the lovely lamps that shine as the stars which came down to earth for a walk.
The presence of the police and local administration at every corner overlooking each detail is wonderful. Even the hot summers were thought of and sprinklers in the temple made our visit to the temple comfortable and memorable. Water in the river is cleaned regularly, boats with personnel on watch make your dip worry free. Did we ladies go there for a dip in the river Shipra, yes we did, for a darshan of Mahakaal yes we did, for an experience of the ancient holy city of Ujjain which has the liquor drowning Kaal Bhairav, Lord Krishna's school Sandeepani ashram with a beautifully sculptured well in its compound which would put any swimming pool of the modern schools to shame and the ancient caves (giving us the glimpses of the conditions people set themselves out for to find the limits of human possibilities, etc.). But we were also asking for more as we wanted to visit the “Akhaadaas”.
We found a baba with nothing on him but a sack wrapped around his waist. We had been warned before that these people do not like us dwindling into our purses so we ladies took out some money and kept some handy as our budget for the day. Having come to the tail end of both our energies and our budget for the day our last tens were all we were left with. We went down and gave that to him and he graciously accepted without a thought and started talking to us. In no time we knew he was educated and very well travelled. When he found where we each came from he listed out all the holy places around and encouraged each of us to show them to the others in our group. Srisailam to Dwaraka to Girnar nothing he missed. All throughout during the conversation he was with quick wit and understanding and surprised us totally. When we look back today we feel sorry for ourselves and the assumptions we had as we set out on our encounter with him. In our culture, we hear that we should be grateful to those who accept anything from us; this experience indeed taught us that to core.
Next time you visit Kumbh, just do not go for Snan (Dip in the waters) it has much more to offer.
To reach Ujjain:
By Train: Ujjian is well connected by railway with most of the major cities in India
By Road: Well connected with major cities
Nearest Airport : Indore approx. 60 km., regular flights ply from all the major cities.
Accommodation: Dharamshalas near Mahakal temple, MP tourism guest house and there are number of hotels in Ujjain to suit every budget
Garhi Padhavali - the Fortress Temple
Inspired, charged and rejuvenated after the exploration of Mitawali, it was the time to unearth one more
jewel from the chronicles of Golden Indian Heritage.
.
Friends welcome to "PADAWALI", a fortress temple dedicated to all the Gods (Padawali is spelt differently across various places/ platforms). Padawali is just 3 km. from Mitawali and can be visited comfortably with Mitawali. You only must make sure your vehicle does not run the risk of running out of fuel. Area around Mitawali is devoid of any habitation however the region around Padhavali is populated with several villages.
As an honorary tradition in India, Red Carpet welcome is extended to all the visiting dignitaries at the entrance. Find out yourself, a grand welcome by none other than the mighty: LIONS: on moving closer to the main structure:
Chausath Yogini - Mitawali Temple, inspiration of Indian Parliament house
"India is an AMAZING
Land"
With a mix of caution and thrill I took the left turn from Thekari after Morena, from here route is fairly simple; go straight for around 15 km. to finally see a direction signal to Mitawali. Though the road is narrow, but it is in fairly good condition, except for a few stretches which are being re-laid. Excitement of getting closer to Mitawali had ensured that the road condition was the last thing on my mind.
There is very less habitation on this way. Enthusiasm of exploring a new
place was enough to keep me in good spirits. After driving for 5 hours, I
finally reached “Mitawali” site and it was the time to climb 100 ft. upstairs
to embrace the beautiful Shiva temple, situated at top of a hill.
Circular
architecture of this temple is an absolute cynosure to the eyes. A circular
central hall (Main temple) surrounded by small temples is a unique
construction. At first glance it didn't look like a temple at all; it seemed
like a university or an ancient seat of administration.
Mitawali temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and consists of 64 Yogini small temples surrounding the main Central temple of Lord Shiva.
It was the time to thank the Gods for such a wonderful drive to Mitawali and also praying to God his for benevolence to continue my life like this. While I was thanking the GOD's, the perforated base of the central temple caught my attention. The caretaker told me that it was built as a passage for rainwater to go into a huge reservoir below. I tried locating it but failed. It must have been built with precision so as not to obstruct the beauty of the monument in any way and serve its purpose secretly. Even the pipe-like pieces on the roofs, constructed to drain the rainwater, made me hail the architectural prowess of those times. It was perhaps these smart engineering techniques, apart from the limited number of visitors, which has contributed in keeping the temple in a comparatively good state.

Outer wall of the temple is decorated with numerous images of Hindu Gods and Goddesses.
Apart from appreciating the temple, you can also have an astonishing pigeon eye view of the surrounding areas.
Vast tracts of land, scattered habitation, not so easy life in
the villages will surely take you much closer to real India, very
different from India existing in big cities. As told by locales and
caretaker this temple was built in around 9th century AD and
used to be a seat of education of astrology and mathematics with the use
of the rays and shades of the Sun. My first guess about this place was almost
bang on target. Very recently a caretaker has been appointed by MP tourism
department for this temple who is doing an excellent housekeeping of this
temple premises. He is also maintaining a register and regularly taking
feedback from occasional visitors on how to popularise this place.
You call it a sheer
coincidence or strange coincidence that structure of Indian Parliament house
(Sansad Bhawan) has a close resemblance with this temple. To be honest Indian
parliament house looks like hugely inspired from the architecture of this
temple.
This place has been lying hidden/ forgotten since ages, so very
less information is available about this place. No one can deny the fact that
it must have been very majestic during its prime. Despite being situated
in the vicinity of vibrant
To be frank my
expectations from this place were not so high but the experience I got of this
place was beyond expectations. Whether it was the road to Mitawali, contrasting
village life, un-inhabited lands and above all the
So whenever you plan an excursion to Agra or a Get away to Gwalior, make sure you keep
some time for a visit to Mitawali, believe me you will come back with more
than just memories. There are no fuel stations after left turn from Thekari,
make sure your vehicle does not run out of fuel...
Please find this article published in national newspaper, The Pioneer:
http://www.dailypioneer.com/sunday-edition/agenda/travel/history-hunting.html
There are other monuments also
close to Mitawali, worth exploring:
1. Padawali: 3-4 Km. from Mitawali this
fabulous temple monument waiting is considered as superior of Khajuraho temple.
2. Kakan Math Temple: 23 km. from Mitawali,
this 115 ft. high ancient Shiva temple is assembled in stones without any
adhesive.
3. Batesara temples: 4-5 km. is a huge comples of
temples dated back to 6th -9th century. Around 350 temples are estimated to
exist here. Work is ongoing to restore the glory of the temples.
Keep travelling Guys.
Getaway to Gwalior
Everyone has his/ her ways to enjoy the gift called "LIFE". Some
prefer hanging out with friends, some like discotheques and some prefer
travelling to distinct locations to seek enjoyment. Apart from enjoyment,
travelling is an ideal way to recharge your energy stocks.
I too fall in the latter category, and I honestly
believe that you need not going to Bahamas or Paris to seek rejuvenation: "just look
around yourself, pack your bags and start". Here lies
the Advantage India. India is such a diverse country that if you try to explore, you
can go to any city/ town or village I am sure you would not be
disappointed. This I believed during my trip to Gwalior.
