Rock cut Carvings at Urwai Gate - Gwalior Fort

Walls of Gwalior Fort have been a silent and bruised witness to tides of history. These walls have celebrated the glory, and have withstood battering by the invaders as well. Why not, earliest evidence say the Fort was built as early as 727 AD and was subsequently refurbished, expanded and provided its present shape in 15th century.

Also considered as the impenetrable Forts in India, the Western Gate of the Gwalior Fort is one of the striking parts of the Fort. However, most of the visitors unknowingly miss it out over the Gwalior Fort. Also, the local travel planners/ guides generally do not inform about this stunning Western entrance to the Gwalior Fort, known as Urwai Gate which greets the visitors with colossal rock cut architecture. 

The right-hand view from the Fort entry gate, metal road going up the hill ensures visitors miss out noticing the rock cut carvings and also roadside trees covering the view of these marvellous rock cut caricatures do not help the cause of these monuments. I too would have missed, had I not came across this view, while going up the hill and if I had not asked at the gate about these Rock-Cut sculptures.

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Shanichara Temple, Morena

The charming affair for exploring offbeat and marvellous hidden spots continues non-stop with Gwalior and nearby Chambal Ravines. I had a day in hand and thankfully got a car to drive, so Chambal Ravines were again the natural choice for exploring some more unexplored spots. What else this Vagabond would have thought of when Life gave him a spare day and a vehicle to drive.

It took me around one hour from Gwalior to locate, ask locales about the way and finally reach Shanichara Temple, situated deep inside remote corners of Chambal Ravines. Dedicated to Shani Dev, such a Grand Temple at such a remote location arouses curiosity to know about the history of the place as much as quest to explore another hidden spot.

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Sahastrabahu Temple/ Saas bahu Temple

Temple which was originally called as Sahastrabahu Temple, is now popularly known as Saas bahu temple. How come?

In the ancient times, there was a king, King Mahipala whose wife was a devotee of Lord Vishnu. So, this temple was built by King Mahipala in the year 1092 depicting Lord Vishnu with thousand arms, Sahastrabahu. Hence the temple, an architectural marvel was originally called as Sahastrabahu temple. Located at eastern part of Gwalior Fort, the first look appearance of the temple is simply mind blowing. 

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Teli ka Mandir, Gwalior

When was the last time you drove for 6-7 hours since early morning, just to visit that splendid spot? 

When you are in the country known India, there are many such spots which are destinations in themselves. Even a whole day travel is worth to just spend 30-40 minutes at the spot. Ancient Teli-Ka Mandir in Gwalior is one such spot. Colossal size, splendid architecture, intricate carvings of Gods and Goddesses and image of Garuda, vehicle of Lord Vishnu make this temple a complete destination.

More than 100 ft. in height, the temple is a unique blend of different Indian architectural styles. It is the tallest structure in the Gwalior Fort. Check out the different styles of lower half and the upper dome.

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Kanch Mandir, Indore

He was known as then "Cotton King of India", had set up the first Jute Mill in India, he was from Indore and he had penchant for creating masterpieces. Millions of glass pieces have been out together in order to built this glittering temple of glass, known as Kanch Ka Mandir. Outer Hall of this temple has numerous artifacts, all made of innovative use of glass. All that glitters here is Glass, beautiful Glass:

The temple is located inside one of the most popular markets in Indore city. The construction began sometime around 1903, but location of this temple is located inside a busy market was baffling me. Probably market got developed over the time around this popular spot; however the ITWARIYA market is much older than the temple.

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Krishnapura Chhatris, Indore

Rise of Marathas during 17^th century lead to emergence of one of the most significant power in India which is mostly credited with ending misrule which was prevailing in those times. Brilliant commander like Tanhaji, supported by courageous chiefs like Holkars, Bhonsale, Scindia, Gorkwads, established a kingdom based on Indian traditions and culture.

Brilliance of Indian soul is that gallantry comes along with patronage of arts and culture. Be it Rajputs or Marathas, their swords crushed invaders time and again and their chisels crafted architectural wonders.

The way Rajasthan is full of exquisite masterpieces, a testimony to the artistic flavors of the Rajputs; similarly the Maratha Rulers also had exquisite taste for architecture which is immortalized in the form of the Krishnapura Chhatris, a spectacular combination of visually appealing stones, visible at the first glance.

Heart of Indore is the address and I was fortunate to be at Krishnapura Chhatris, the resting place of the Holkars. Development of Indore and nearby areas like Maheshwar is solely credited to the Holkar kings, who kept the soul intact till 1948. 

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Maheshwar - Cultured by Ahilya Bai Holkar

Once the devil Ravana took up a fight with King Sahastrabahu. However, the result did not go as per his expectations and Ravana was taken as prisoner by king Sahastrabahu. The place where Ravana was kept as prisoner is mentioned as “Mahishmati” in Ramayana.

Yes, the same “Mahishmati” which was mentioned in blockbuster movie Bahubali. But where this city Mahishmati is or had existed in the past? After finished our exploration of Mandu, we were all set to Maheshwar, 45 km. from Mandu situated along the banks of river Narmada.

This small and peaceful town is noted for its mammoth Ghats, temples, and Sarees. Lots of pilgrims and saints come here to offer prayers and worship sacred river Narmada. Lot of Saints, why? Reason being - The mythological city of Mahishmati “, is now known as Maheshwar. Our spirits soared to unprecedented heights to realize that we were standing in legendary mythological city of “Mahishmati”.

To thank the Gods for this fortunate trip, we went to the banks of Narmada River for thanksgiving. That is the first thing to be done in Maheshwar. Neat and clean mammoth structures alongside the Ghats (riverbanks) will ensure every moment spent here is worth. Ahilya Ghat is the most prominent place of worship on river Narmada.

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Mandu - City of Love destroyed by Powerquest

Situated approx. 100 km. from Indore, Mandu is a small ancient city in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Mandu rose to its peak of glory under patronage of then king Baz Bahadur. This was the time when love story of Baz Bahadur and his queen Rani Roopmati had painted the Mandu in colours of love during 16th century. Till date their love story is the flavour of all folk tales and song-dance theme in this Malwa region. Baz Bahadur (commonly known as Brave Hawk) was a warrior par excellence who fall in love with Roopmati, a shepherd with a symphonic voice.

Testimony to their fairy tale saga: To respect the desire of Roopmati to worship river Narmada every morning, Baz Bahadur constructed a Pavilion (Roopmati Mandap) cum military observatory fort to enable Roopmati get a sight of and worship river Narmada daily from terrace of pavilion.

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Offbeat locations in Madhya Pradesh that will fascinate you

Madhya Pradesh is known as the heart of India as it is the state that is geographically located right in the middle of the country. Madhya Pradesh has seen the rise and fall of many kings and kingdoms with cities like Ujjain playing a pivotal role in bringing prosperity to the city. The state attracts a flock of tourists every year due to the presence of many historical monuments like the Khajuraho temple and Sanchi Stupa. Being the state with the highest forest cover in India, Madhya Pradesh is also home to a lot of rare and indigenous species of flora and fauna. But these are facts that you already know. For travellers who are looking for more, here are 9 Offbeat Locations in Madhya Pradesh That Will Fascinate You.

1. Orchha

The historic town of Orchha lies on the banks of Betwa River was founded in the 16th century by Rudra Pratap Singh, who was the ruler of the princely state of Central India. The town still holds the grandeur of the fallen kingdoms with a lot of temples and monuments that will take you travel back in time. Orchha fort is a visual treat due to its location on the islands of Betwa River. Chhatris, Dinman Hardul’s Palace and Jhansi Fort are the nearby places to visit. The architecture and wall paintings in Laxminarayan Temple, which was constructed in 1662 is a wonder of its own. Read more about Orchha...

2. Mandu

Mandu is a ruin city that is protected by the plateau of Malwa to the north and the valley of the Narmada River to the south. Jahaz Mahal or the Ship Mahal was a construction by Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din Khilji. The palace looks like a ship that is about to set sail leaving its reflection on the water. Baz Bahadur’s Palace and Hindola Mahal show the influence of foreign architecture in India. Champa Baoli is a step well that draws inspiration from the construction of Turkish Baths. Read about Mandu.

3. Panna

Panna National Park situated on the banks of River Ken is a home of many animals and one of the best maintained national parks in the country. Just near the Panna National Park is Pandava Caves and Falls. This place is said to be the location where the Pandavas stayed during their exile. The copious vegetation entwined with the whispering rills is a sight to behold. Other attractions in Panna are the diamond mines and Raneh Falls. Panna is also a place with a lot of temples such as the Padmavati Devi temple and Jugal Kishoreji Temple. The Baldeoji temple with its Roman-style architecture is a unique construction that stands out.

4.  Burhanpur

Burhanpur was a city that flourished under the Rashtrakuta Dynasty and there are many forts and towers that still carry pages from the history. The Asigarh Fort and Shahi Kila are located along the banks of river Tapti. The Zanana Hammam in the Shahi Fort is a construction that is a smooth portrayal of Persian architecture which inspired the Mughals. Burhanpur is also a major Muslim Pilgrim Center. Jama Majid and Dargah-E-Hakimi are visited by thousands of devotees every year.

5. Shivpuri

Shivpuri is a place where nature’s colors are at its best. The Bhadaiya Kund is a natural spring for a refreshing journey. The water in Panihar is considered to be holy and meant to wash away your sins. Karera Bird Sanctuary and Madhav National Park add much to animal lovers rejoice. Banganga temple and Siddeshwar temple are some of the oldest temples in the city known for its sacred kunds and idols depicting the various Hindu Gods.

6. Tikamgarh Fort

Tikamgarh Fort or Garh Kundar Fort as it is locally known is situated on the hilltop on a village in Tikamgarh district. The watch towers and citadels stand tall among the granite flooring and fallen masonry. The Fort is visible from far but appears to vanish as you get closer to it much adding to its clever construction. Rock Pillar inscriptions that tell the tales of Khangar kings can be seen on the walls.

7.    Maheshwar

Maheshwar Temple on the banks of Narmada River finds mention in the Mahabharata and Ramayana. Maheshwar is home to the best looms and fabric in the country and Maheshwari sarees are famous for its color and intricate details in the weaves. There are many shopping sites where you will get the best Maheshwari cotton sarees. Maheshwar is a major pilgrim centre for Hindus with places such as Ahilyeshwar temple and Jaleshwar temple that are dedicated to Lord Shiva. 

Read more about Maheshwar...

8. Chanderi

Although Chanderi sarees have been famous for a long time among the womenfolk in the country, this small town is slowly earning a place in the popular destinations in Madhya Pradesh. Chanderi Fort and Koshak Mahal are epitomes of Afghan and Mughal architecture in the country.  Kati Ghati, a gateway which was cut out of a single rock forms the entry to Chanderi from Malwa and Bundelkhand regions. The view from the place is spectacular with Ram Nagar Museum and Ram Nagar Lake on one side and the Jain Temple and the fort on the other side

9.  Tincha Falls

Tincha Falls is located near the city of Indore and is a place for a picnic for families. The waterfalls are opulent during the monsoon. You can just pack some food and spend an evening with the family gazing at the water. Kaligarh Fort near the Tincha Falls and Kajligarh Mahadev Temple surrounds the place. On the way to the falls, you will find wildlife being in harmony with nature with birds like peacocks wandering seamlessly along the place.

If you are looking for new sites to explore upon in Madhya Pradesh, then this list will not disappoint you. Far from the troop of too many tourists, you can find peace in a quirky and peaceful location.

Author Bio

Rohit: A travel enthusiast and blogger, Rohit loves embarking new journeys across India. Read more of his eccentric experiences in his blog TransIndia Travels.

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Orchha - Land of Forts, Palaces, Cenotaphs, Relics and Ruins

Going beyond the ravines of Chambal, we were on the way to explore a small hidden town of Orchha, which literally means hidden. Orchha is a small town on banks of Betwa river in Niwari district of Madhya Pradesh, 125 km. from Gwalior and 15 km. from Jhansi. Kingdom of Orchha was established in the 16th century AD, year 1531 AD by the Bundela Rajput chief, Rudra Pratap Singh on the banks of Betwa River. Orchha was developed as an impenetrable fortified citadel. Orchha fort complex consists of numerous temples, forts and cenotaphs (Chhatris), these all make Orchha an interesting spot to explore.

All good things shall start with a prayer to the Gods; first spot in Orchha shall be the Raja Ram Temple, an acclaimed temple which was earlier in fact a queen’s palace. This is the only temple in the world where Lord Rama is worshipped as King Rama. 

Adjacent to Raja Ram temple is the gigantic Chaturbhuj Temple, built by the king Madhukar to idolize Lord Rama. However, Lord Rama decided to rest in the Raja Ram Temple. 
Read the interesting story about Raja Ram temple and Chaturbhuj Temple...

After praying, time to walk the heritage trail. Orchha fort consists of many palaces like Raja Mahal, Jahangir Mahal and Rai Parveen Mahal. Jahangir Mahal reflects the Bundela architecture. The views from the balconies in the palace are spectacular. Raja Mahal is most ancient historic monuments in Orchha fort. Standing on the island created by Betwa River, Raj Mahal is surrounded by a battlement wall.

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Saga of Raja Ram Temple at Orchha

After exploring the Chambal ravines and an amazing pit stop at Sonagiri temples the road to Orchha was in front of us. We have driven for 15 km. from Sonagiri, when a fort along side a river came to our sight. It was the imposing 7 storied Datia Fort, also known as Bir Singh Palace. However no member of Datia royal family ever lived in this palace.

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Sonagiri, the Milky Hill...

By now we have explored almost every road in ChambalRavines, to further extend our safari beyond Gwalior we started our drive towards Orchha on road from Gwalior. While exploring the roads and asking for the directions, some locales advised us to visit the milky mountain of Sonagiri. Milky Mountain…? The name Sonagiri actually means mountain of gold. We too were surprised by this, till the locales told us that 77 beautiful temples, all in white colour is the reason behind milky Sonagiri Hill. Locales are the best guides.

Sonagiri is a place sacred to Digambar Jains. It is situated 60 km. from Gwalior and has a chain of temples of 9^th - 10^th century on this hill since the time from Chandraprabhu. As we were approaching towards the hill, we could clearly see an umbrella of white temples covering the hill.

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Batesara Temples, Reviving a lost legacy...

In pursuit to unravel the unknown secrets of Chambal Ravines, this self proclaimed archaeologist decided to follow the tracks which were once the playgrounds of the dreaded dacoits of Chambal. These tracks bear the testimony of many battles between dacoits and police forces. With dacoits now a part of history, this new Chambal is a virgin kingdom with a red carpet for vagabonds like us.

From Gwalior, one hour of drive in the ravines took me to the slopes of an isolated range of hills near Padawali village; 1.2 km. ahead of Garhi Padhavali, 40km. from Gwalior and 25km. from Morena town in Morena district. Finally I was at the site of Batesara group of temples, perhaps the most prominent in the Chambal Ravines. There is some charm in the air of such places, that people get attracted to.

Flanked by hills and hidden from the outside world, far off in the Chambal Valleys a temple complex is coming back to life like a phoenix.

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Kakan Math Temple - The faithful Gravity Defying Stones

Change your attitude and whole world changes for you...

The moment I decided to put on my exploring shoes, every road turned into a worthy destination. It was the time to complete the Chambal Safari which had started 2 years back to explore the hidden ancient historical marvels situated in Chambal ravines. First round had resulted in discovery of Mitawali temple, which had been the inspiration behind the design of Indian Parliament house.

Sorry I forgot to mention the objective of the quest, discovering Gravity defying Kakanmath temple which must have been one of the most prominent temples in India, in its glorious days. Do not be surprised once you reach there, you will get the answer...Since my last attempt to reach Kakanmath had failed so this time I was trying again to chase my passion with whatsoever it would have been taken and followed the heart to finally arrive at this sensational architecture.

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Simhastha Kumbh, Hangover that refuses to end...

Yes this is one hangover we will never try to get rid of, in fact will treasure in a corner of our beings, forever. We are talking about our adventure/pilgrimage/ educational tour to Ujjain during Simhasth Kumbh Mela, whatever one would like to call it. Yes the grand carnival or Mahaparv (Grand Festival), celebrated by largest human gathering on Earth in every 12 years, this time from 22^nd April – 21^st May 2016. Excitement and nostalgia of being the blessed one for getting a chance to take dip in the holy waters and experience the Day 1 Shahi Snan was overwhelming and uncontrollable.

Day 1: Shahi Snan at Ujjain Kumbh

We five ladies having introduced to the sanctity of the dip in the river during the Kumbh set out to have our own trip to Ujjain. The plans begun, tickets booked, all happened as though someone was over looking us and we landed in Indore on our way to Omkareshwar.

The drive to Omkareshwar from Indore was comfortable and we were welcomed by the hottest blow of air as we got down visiting the temple at Omkareshwar. After the darshan at Omkareshwar and a relaxed visit to the temple, we settled down to a comfortable stay at the MP tourism hotel. Next morning we set out for a dip in Narmada, and we were pleasantly surprised by the group of Bengali ladies who joined us. All were much older than us, but their pure joy as they took the dip unabashed was inspiring. Some hung on to our arms as they wished to swing for a while in the water, as we city bred cautious ladies, were looking at the rocks with moss on them cautiously.  Narmada with her quite, magnanimous way had lessons to teach us, in that little while. Mother after all, she is. We were wondering which other culture in the world has so much reverence to the life giving rivers: Calling them rivers, bowing to them, energizing oneself with a dip in them, praying and lighting the lovely lamps that shine as the stars which came down to earth for a walk.

Very soon we left for Ujjain and a brief stopover for a hearty lunch in Indore. The ride was smooth and we reached the hotel after an eventful journey in the last leg resulting from security and logistics issues set out by the MP govt. Those of us who visited Ujjain during the last year could not help but notice how elaborate the arrangements were and the efforts that have gone in to make the visitors comfortable.

The presence of the police and local administration at every corner overlooking each detail is wonderful. Even the hot summers were thought of and sprinklers in the temple made our visit to the temple comfortable and memorable. Water in the river is cleaned regularly, boats with personnel on watch make your dip worry free. Did we ladies go there for a dip in the river Shipra, yes we did, for a darshan of Mahakaal yes we did, for an experience of the ancient holy city of Ujjain which has the liquor drowning Kaal Bhairav, Lord Krishna's school Sandeepani ashram with a beautifully sculptured well in its compound  which would put any swimming pool of the modern schools to shame and the ancient caves (giving us the glimpses of the conditions people set themselves out for to find the limits of human possibilities, etc.). But we were also asking for more as we wanted to visit the “Akhaadaas”.

What are these akhaadaas? Knowing not much more than that these are places where Aghoras, Naga Babas might be present, we were keen to have a glimpse of them after reading and sharing a few books on them not too long ago. We set out to visit the Akhaadaas finally, the ones where the Naga-Babas will be there. The walk through these lanes was nothing that can be remotely termed as serene, spiritual or calming. Each of these tents were as bright and loud as any exhibition a middle class Indian visited at any time in his life. Each of them were open and inviting. We chose to sit with one and found him smoking continuously, we were informed he has an ashram in Gujarat which is frequented by many and his complexion is so spotless and clear would give any fancy facial and makeover a run, that, in spite of smoking uninterruptedly.

To our wonderment, some yogis and sadhus were walking or simply sitting in Digambar Avastha.......a clothless state. The Nagas…! For some, smoking seemed their only interest. Even when they smoked it was not casual, careless. It looked like there was some purpose behind their smoking. Some looked fierce, some were compassionate. They had given up families, worldly life even the clothing...Actually, after a while when we saw many who were smoking and smoking various stuff, were thinking that these babas are actually poster boys for tobacco industry. They all looked fit, energetic and that in spite of chain smoking. What are these people doing that we are missing, our experience from the urban world is - you go to any specialist and if you ask him to cure you, he tells you to stop smoking, and we know how much that is possible.

Another experience worth mentioning is from a baba we named the “Joyful One”. In all my life of five decades and more, I have not met any who is so joyful for so long for no reason. Watching him is being a life lesson; he stands on one leg, and takes support on a swing that has been put up temporarily. Was he told he got 99.9% in SSC today, did his child get into IIT today or did he win a lottery today, none of these or any of the many things which most of us are slogging away all the time for this reason, but HE IS JUST PLAIN JOYFUL ALL THE TIME...!

We were amazed and anxious that how can someone consistently be so joyful for sooo long? We were with him for over 45minutes. He made us chant Om Namah Shivaaya and was open to questions, answering joyfully whatever one throws at him. When asked how he remains so joyful he said what is the reason not to be, all have the same soul, we come and go why not to be joyful. Even I know those answers but WHY AM I NOT SO JOYFUL? When he heard I am from Andhra he quickly dialled a number and wished I talk to the lady on the other end. Even as my group was leaving I could not say no and waited to talk expecting a bigwig from the other end looking at his enthusiasm. After a couple of minutes I heard a lady who was on her way to gulf for a petty job and encountered this Swami in Srisailam. Did someone say “Do not judge people by what they do but how they are?” 

After a couple of hours of this round we were feeling tired so decided to relax on the beautiful ghat, bank of river Shipra under the full moon. It was a beautiful sight and ambience par excellence.

We found a baba with nothing on him but a sack wrapped around his waist. We had been warned before that these people do not like us dwindling into our purses so we ladies took out some money and kept some handy as our budget for the day. Having come to the tail end of both our energies and our budget for the day our last tens were all we were left with. We went down and gave that to him and he graciously accepted without a thought and started talking to us. In no time we knew he was educated and very well travelled. When he found where we each came from he listed out all the holy places around and encouraged each of us to show them to the others in our group. Srisailam to Dwaraka to Girnar nothing he missed. All throughout during the conversation he was with quick wit and understanding and surprised us totally. When we look back today we feel sorry for ourselves and the assumptions we had as we set out on our encounter with him. In our culture, we hear that we should be grateful to those who accept anything from us; this experience indeed taught us that to core.

Also there were Naga Babas around, with ash on their bodies and in all different ways possible, long hired ones, high hired ones, etc, etc. how can one human being with nothing on their body, terrorize everyone around. No one can stand in the way of Naga Babas. We could not but help thinking of them as “Emperors with No Clothes”.

Having more than possible assumptions and expectations cultivated from the urban world getting destroyed in one evening, we could not but wonder which university in the world could have taught us more in one evening. These are people who stretch the physical limits to teach us what is possible with ourselves physically. Having achieved the heights of so called success and material well being, when the junta is lost for happiness and look grim, they show us how to be absolutely joyful with nothing much round you. They are in our world hidden, quietly stretching the human possibilities. Where around us we calculate the value of gifts and return gifts they offer us an opportunity to offer them unconditionally.

Next time you visit Kumbh, just do not go for Snan (Dip in the waters) it has much more to offer.

My Guru said Mahakaal dissolves you – How True.

By Lata Francis, Feruzan Khambatta, Mona Patel, Pooja Mehta and Usha Boppana – Isha Meditators.

Thanks to the blessed ones who got this sacred opportunity to experience this sacred conclave of humanity and one of the greatest festival for the mankind…Waiting for my turn to be at Kumbh, may be this one or the next one... 

To reach Ujjain:
By Train: Ujjian is well connected by railway with most of the major cities in India
By Road: Well connected with major cities
Nearest Airport : Indore approx. 60 km., regular flights ply from all the major cities.
Accommodation: Dharamshalas near Mahakal temple, MP tourism guest house and there are number of hotels in Ujjain to suit every budget

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Garhi Padhavali - the Fortress Temple

Inspired, charged and rejuvenated after the exploration of Mitawali, it was the time to unearth one more jewel from the chronicles of Golden Indian Heritage.

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Friends welcome to "PADAWALI", a fortress temple dedicated to all the Gods (Padawali is spelt differently across various places/ platforms). Padawali is just 3 km. from Mitawali and can be visited comfortably with Mitawali. You only must make sure your vehicle does not run the risk of running out of fuel. Area around Mitawali is devoid of any habitation however the region around Padhavali is populated with several villages. 

As an honorary tradition in India, Red Carpet welcome is extended to all the visiting dignitaries at the entrance. Find out yourself, a grand welcome by none other than the mighty: LIONS: on moving closer to the main structure:

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Chausath Yogini - Mitawali Temple, inspiration of Indian Parliament house

"India is an AMAZING Land" 

With a mix of caution and thrill I took the left turn from Thekari after Morena, from here route is fairly simple; go straight for around 15 km. to finally see a direction signal to Mitawali. Though the road is narrow, but it is in fairly good condition, except for a few stretches which are being re-laid. Excitement of getting closer to Mitawali had ensured that the road condition was the last thing on my mind.

There is very less habitation on this way. Enthusiasm of exploring a new place was enough to keep me in good spirits. After driving for 5 hours, I finally reached “Mitawali” site and it was the time to climb 100 ft. upstairs to embrace the beautiful Shiva temple, situated at top of a hill.

Circular architecture of this temple is an absolute cynosure to the eyes. A circular central hall (Main temple) surrounded by small temples is a unique construction. At first glance it didn't look like a temple at all; it seemed like a university or an ancient seat of administration.

Mitawali temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and consists of 64 Yogini small temples surrounding the main Central temple of Lord Shiva. 

It was the time to thank the Gods for such a wonderful drive to Mitawali and also praying to God his for benevolence to continue my life like this. While I was thanking the GOD's, the perforated base of the central temple caught my attention. The caretaker told me that it was built as a passage for rainwater to go into a huge reservoir below. I tried locating it but failed. It must have been built with precision so as not to obstruct the beauty of the monument in any way and serve its purpose secretly. Even the pipe-like pieces on the roofs, constructed to drain the rainwater, made me hail the architectural prowess of those times. It was perhaps these smart engineering techniques, apart from the limited number of visitors, which has contributed in keeping the temple in a comparatively good state. 

Environment inside the temple is utmost peaceful, walking around in the lonely corridors is a rare delicacy. Each small temple has an image of Lord Shiva, also known as "SHIVLING - शिवलिंग". Sit back and enjoy the silence.

Outer wall of the temple is decorated with numerous images of Hindu Gods and Goddesses. 

Apart from appreciating the temple, you can also have an astonishing pigeon eye view of the surrounding areas.

Vast tracts of land, scattered habitation, not so easy life in the villages will surely take you much closer to real India, very different from India existing in big cities. As told by locales and caretaker this temple was built in around 9^th century AD and used to be a seat of education of astrology and mathematics with the use of the rays and shades of the Sun. My first guess about this place was almost bang on target. Very recently a caretaker has been appointed by MP tourism department for this temple who is doing an excellent housekeeping of this temple premises. He is also maintaining a register and regularly taking feedback from occasional visitors on how to popularise this place.

You call it a sheer coincidence or strange coincidence that structure of Indian Parliament house (Sansad Bhawan) has a close resemblance with this temple. To be honest Indian parliament house looks like hugely inspired from the architecture of this temple.

This place has been lying hidden/ forgotten since ages, so very less information is available about this place. No one can deny the fact that it must have been very majestic during its prime. Despite being situated in the vicinity of vibrant Chambal River, there is meagre inhabitation in this region. This is a significant departure from the Indian perspective; all the ancient monuments situated near to the rivers have ensured settlement of the civilizations and flourishing cities. All the ancient temples and monuments are testimony to this piece of evidence. Elderly locales told with wet eyes that "गोरे आये थे तोप लेके इस मंदिर को तोड़ने, पर तोप के गोले ऊपर तक नहीं पहुंचे। आस पास के सब गाँव तहस नहस कर दिए।" Didn't asked more, looks like some vital facts are still lying buried deep inside the soil, waiting to come out with the passage of time. 

To be frank my expectations from this place were not so high but the experience I got of this place was beyond expectations. Whether it was the road to Mitawali, contrasting village life, un-inhabited lands and above all the Temple on top of the hill – it was proud moment for cherishing the Grand Indian panorama. Also, I was rejoicing at my decision to explore this place by driving. As I prepared to return and was putting my shoes, I gave one last glance to this historical marvel and silently I wondered what had kept generations of Indians ignorant of this architectural gem.

So whenever you plan an excursion to Agra or a Get away to Gwalior, make sure you keep some time for a visit to Mitawali, believe me you will come back with more than just memories. There are no fuel stations after left turn from Thekari, make sure your vehicle does not run out of fuel...

Please find this article published in national newspaper, The Pioneer:

http://www.dailypioneer.com/sunday-edition/agenda/travel/history-hunting.html

There are other monuments also close to Mitawali, worth exploring:

1.   Padawali: 3-4 Km. from Mitawali this fabulous temple monument waiting is considered as superior of Khajuraho temple.

2.   Kakan Math Temple: 23 km. from Mitawali, this 115 ft. high ancient Shiva temple is assembled in stones without any adhesive.

3.  Batesara temples: 4-5 km. is a huge comples of temples dated back to 6th -9th century. Around 350 temples are estimated to exist here. Work is ongoing to restore the glory of the temples.

4.   Shanichara Mandir: 12-13 km. is the place where Shani Dev has fallen when Hanumanji had thrown him before torching Lanka.

Keep travelling Guys.

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